Tuesday, August 27, 2019

My Book on Handplanes

I just published the book "Pialle che Passione", available on Amazon.

I would be glad to provide an English edition, too, but I have not the necessary language skills for writing a book in English. 
However I wanted let you know my work, product of my passion for handplanes. Moreover someone of you around the world could know Italian language and so enjoy fully the read.

This is the presentation video:

Ciao Giuliano


Monday, August 19, 2019

Today’s Plane

It’s longtime I don’t purchase other planes......however I can show you some I restored a while ago. 
It is the case of this jointer plane clearly coming from UK I chose after some years of parking.
It’s the classic 24” beech jointer plane...no maker marks onto the body, except a “2 1/4” at the toe for indicating the iron width. This is a fine example of British plane and has an impressive Marples Shamrock blade and chipbreaker. I use to utilize it for roughing and fast dimernsioning bandsawn pieces.

It remained unused for several years, however no flattening of sole has been required, demonstrating a very stable plane body.

I set it with a substantial cutting depth: the brief video provides an idea of its efficiency.  


Monday, July 29, 2019

Rough Carpentry: Little Garden Fence

It all started when we decided of limiting part of our garden for avoiding access to Johnny.
Who is Johnny? Our incomparable Beagle!

So I thought of installing a wooden fence, 175 cm long, very  simple: two side pieces with a central gate. 

The project is quite simple but I showed its realization for a particular reason: the build was done without nails, screws or glue. 
For me is a new way of working wood. I must say I was satisfied of result: the fence is rock solid and time will tell me if the technical solutions were right.
Stiles and rails are jointed by mortice and tenon and reinforced by pins inserted through the joints; staves fit rails by a dovetail joint.   
For building the fence I used pallet wood (silver fir) without eliminate defects as nail holes, deep scratches or dead knots, all covered by a coulored paint.

Realization of mortices on the stiles.

After preparing pieces by band saw and hand planes I realized the  mortices on the stiles and the housings for insert staves on the rails. 

Trace on both the  head of staves the wished angle.

The first step was to create  the right angle on both edges of staves, with a 1:6 ratio (9,5° circa), as generally prescribed for dovetail joints on soft woods.   

The pencil marks drive for a correct bevel. 
The result. 

With angles traced on both stave heads, I utilized a jack plane for crating the bevel on both edges. 
The next step was to excavate the recesses on rails, realized with saw, chisel and router plane.   

Cut just to the inner side  of waste by a dozuki saw.

Remove the waste.
The router plane levels the bottom of stave recess.

At this point I created a double bevel  on the top of rails, so the rain can slide easily. 

The top edge of rails is bevelled in order to avoid the stagnation of rain water. 

Then realize the tenons, cut slightly wider of final dimensions. A rabbet block plane (Sargent 507) is used for the job. 

The block rebate plane is useful for giving the right dimensions to tenons.  

Because the work is glue free I preferred making tight joints, so that they was held by some mallet shot. The same was for stave insertion, apart the gate joints , held with drawbored pins. 
The holes are flared on top from both parts by a screwdriver of proper size. Pins, properly cut to the extremities, are held from both sides by wedges.   

The tip shape of a screwdriver helps to flare the hole extremities.

Pins show one or two cuts to the extremities for wedge insertion.

When inserted, the pin is held by wedges on both sides.
As said, rail tenons are fixed in their mortices by slightly unmatched holes. Drawboring was applied to fixed part of door lock, placed on one of the stiles: in this case a double mortice was made on the stile and the stop and two floating tenons are drawbored in both pieces.

I haven’t pics of this step, but I drew a sketch for illustrate the concept: 

Drawboring is used to fix the lock stop to the stile.

The fence is assembled in the shop before finishing.

Finish was two coats of cementite and two of  acrylic paint.

Saturday, May 4, 2019

BMW....Ops...VBM 7 Serie

I use to utilize, with ample rotation, all my planes, many of which kept ready to use and sharp.
Today was the Sargent VBM 714 (I restored several years ago) workshift. 
VBM stands for Very Best Made
 The 7 serie has the particular feature of having the chipbreaker incorporated into the lever cap and adjustable by a screw, without to have to remove any component.

Moreover, its position remains unchanged, in the case the blade was removed for sharpening. 
Vintage Sargent planes (VBM planes were made in the second decade of XX century) haven't nothing to envy to the best Stanley planes of that period.

Unlike the Stanley ones, the frog is not adjustable, but this don't create particular discomfort in the use of a 714 (n° 5 equivalent). So, in the smoothing planes of the serie (707, 708, 710), the anti-tearout role is provided only by chipbraker and maybe is this the reason for which the mouth is kept rather abundant (at least in the 714 I have; would be interesting to know if this is true for smoothing models too).
Below all models of 7 serie are listed (with approx. lenght):

707, 7"
708, 8"
710, 10"
711, 11"
714, 14"
718, 18"
722, 22"

Saturday, June 30, 2018

Tenon plane

Hand planes are main protagonist in all works I realize, few indeed, but satisfiing pleintfull my passion for classic woodworking.
Is the case of a little table I realized recently for a friend of mine.

Other than piece preparation by my wooden faithful bench planes, I had to face up to some traditional working, as tenon making, performed taking advantage from precision and efficiency of a well tuned plane.

The classic method for table building requires mortice and tenon assembly between legs and rails. Frequently, these tenons are quite large, not exactly easy to make by an handsaw.  
The uniform dimensions in thickness and lenght allow me to adopt an alternative method to the handsaw cut: I used a rebate plane (a moving fillister plane I made). The job success depends by accurate piece squaring and their uniform thickness.

Aligned pieces are cut on both sides. The plane depth stop ensures a mirror cut and the tenon appears uniform, neat and with square shoulders. Morever, the process is faster than cutting each piece by handsaws.